Living the Book

 

This book, “EVERYTHING I Know About  DATING I Learned Through SURFING”, has been a part of my life for around five years now.  I have kept a journal of quotes ever since my first month on a surfboard back in 2006.  It is so fulfilling to see this work coming to life with the help of my wonderful and very talented co-author, Tara.  We have been writing and rewriting (and rewriting) the final stories for over two years now.  Just when we think we are finished, we see new edits to make, receive great feedback from friends and we start another round of revisions. Because we are weeks away from the big book launch, we are really scrutinizing every word now before we hand it off to our editor for last looks.  I am starting to “see” chapters of the book everywhere I look and in so many conversations I have throughout the day.  I totally have surf quotes on the brain!

 

Just this week my good friend and surfing addict, Jill, was visiting from Florida. She moved to Tampa about a year ago (no surf in Tampa) so whenever she comes back to San Diego, we spend as much time as we can getting in as many surf sessions as possible. We were planning an early morning session at Swamis so I emailed Tara to see if she wanted to join us. She said she would check the surf report in the morning and let us know then if she was going to head out. I immediately replied with the quote from Chapter 20, “Don’t always believe the surf report, get out there and judge waves for yourself!” It made us laugh.

The next day we ignored the not-so-great report, followed our own advice and decided to check out the waves for ourselves. We met bright and early in the parking lot overlooking the break.  It is moments like these when I feel totally comfortable out in public with no makeup, sleep in my eyes, wearing fuzzy warm Ugg boots, a little black sundress and a snow cap to cover up my long blond messy bedhead. Tara, like me, looked a little disheveled too, but we still fit in perfectly with the rest of the sleepy-eyed surf enthusiasts watching the low tide waves crumble on the reef. (Tara is not a morning person, but has started to fall in love with the awesomeness a sunrise surf session can bring. Look for her blog about that soon). Jill looked adorable, as always, in her sassy platform summer sandals, little dusting of eyeliner, casual sweat suit and glowing smile. The morning sky was cloudy and grey, there was a steady breeze chopping up the water and (what we would consider) a nice sized (aka: too big) swell had come in overnight. We were debating whether or not we were going to jump in when Tara said with a grin, “Tomorrow brings more waves….” (Chapter 19).  It made me chuckle that she too couldn’t help but quote the book.

So we passed on the surf session and opted for coffee and breakfast across the street at Swami’s Café.  It’s a colorful iconic little café on the side of Coast Highway. Surf films play on the TV screen, surf magazines line the condiments bar next to the sugar and coffee cream. The other early bird patrons looked as though they were either coming or going from the water. Tara made a comment that when she returns from an out of town trip, she looks forward to eating at Swami’s Café.  She said its cool beachy vibe makes her feel happy to be living in this quaint surf community.  Jill agreed. Swami’s Café is high on her hit list whenever she comes back for a visit. There we sat, the three of us catching up on life, Jill’s latest adventure and the progress of Tara’s and my book. Though we did not get to surf that day, it was still a perfect morning “Just hanging with the girls” (Chapter 18).

-Nancy

 

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